Step one
What you burn right now.
Your last twelve months of deliveries is the most accurate thing on this page. Use it if you have it.
No. 2 fuel oil — 138,500 BTU per gallon.
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Heat and hot water combined. A 2,000 sq ft NH home on oil typically runs 700–1,100 gallons.
Hot water tracks how many people are showering far better than any percentage does.
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Older cast-iron boilers sit near 75%. A modern condensing unit reaches the low 90s.
Service contract, tank rental, delivery and fill surcharges. Real money that disappears with the tank.
Everything that's already electric — lights, plugs, laundry, well pump.
The monthly customer charge you pay to stay connected, whether you import anything or not. It doesn’t go away.
All-in, including delivery. NH runs high — check a recent bill.
Adds a small amount of fuel, and switching to induction adds about 350 kWh a year.
Step two
What the house would run on.
A heat pump moves heat rather than making it, so it delivers two to three times more heat than the electricity it draws. Whichever pieces you swap over, and whenever you do it, we build the generation and storage to carry them.
COP averaged across a NH winter, cold snaps included. Cold-climate units land near 2.8.
Roughly a third the energy of an electric resistance tank.
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Oil and propane have historically climbed faster than electricity. Set it to zero to be conservative.
Side by side
The same house, fully independent.
What you pay now
Oil heat & hot water
Fully electric, on your own power
Heat pumps, induction, solar
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Service contract, tank rental and delivery charges, gone.
The house draws
—everything, all electricThe array makes
—on your roofSo you still buy
—from the utilityYour energy bill
—a yearRead this before the numbers
This page shows the finished picture — every load electric, all of it on your own power. Getting there is a series of steps, and most people take them a few years apart. The appliance side is its own project with its own cost, so if you want a true payback figure, make sure the installed-cost slider covers everything you'd actually be buying, not just the array and the batteries.
These are estimates built from typical New Hampshire values and whatever you typed above. They are not a quote, and nothing here is guaranteed. The single biggest lever is your actual fuel use — if you have last year's delivery tickets, put those numbers in and the rest gets a lot more trustworthy.
Watch the three-way split above, because it tells you where the money is really coming from. If you're on natural gas, the fuel switch on its own often saves little — gas is cheap per BTU in the towns that have it — and most of the number is the solar array, which you could have put up anyway. On oil or propane the fuel switch carries itself before the roof does anything. We'd rather point that out than let a big headline figure do the selling.
The battery isn't in the payback maths above. It doesn't lower a bill; it keeps water running, heat on and food cold when the road is closed. We treat that as what you get on top, not as the reason the numbers work.
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Get these numbers for your house